Learning to Surf on the Outer Banks — One Wave at a Time ?

KHK blogger Brian Tress ready to catch some waves in a beginner’s lesson with Kitty Hawk Kites. (Credit: Erin Porter)

After making the left turn into the Lilian Street beach access parking lot in Kitty Hawk, it was instantly clear we were in the right place — a truck filled with bright turquoise surfboards was parked there, and instructor Clark Brown, a 30-year-old with long, sun-streaked hair and an easy-going smile, stood behind it handing out waivers for that morning’s surfing class.

It’s about 8 a.m., and the students — six kids ranging in age from 10 to 17, and two adults — are still rubbing the sleep from their eyes. But the vibe is all excitement. There’s a mystique around surfing — as both a sport and a culture — and we’re just minutes away from stepping into that world. Kelly Slater, here we come!

Students walk to the beach (l) where the on-land portion of the lesson takes place — safety and skills (r).
(Credit: Brian Tress (l), Jennifer Sidwell (r)

On the beach — beneath a sky of darkish-grey clouds billowing over the ocean — the class begins. A second instructor, Finn McCall, a wiry 22-year-old native of the Outer Banks who’s been surfing since he was 11, starts with a safety briefing: no diving, backflips, or belly flops off the board; hop off the board before you get to shore; paddle out nose-first; and when you fall, come up hands-first to guard your head — and so on.

With the cloud cover and a slight southeasterly breeze, it’s a pleasant 80 degrees on the beach. As the lesson continues, Finn transitions from safety to skills: catch the wave, pop up from a push-up position (no kneeling!), back foot first, then plant your front foot just above the middle strap.

After a few practice rounds on the sand, we’re ready to put our training to the test. The ocean looks inviting, with small, intermittent waves breaking about 20 feet offshore. It’s a bit chilly but refreshing — a crisp morning eye-opener — and clear all the way to your feet.

Instructor Finn McCall takes a moment to enjoy the view. (Credit: Brian Tress)

As I paddled out past the two instructors, Finn pointed and yelled, “Dolphin!” I didn’t see it immediately, but then it surfaced about 100 yards away, and I marveled at the idea of sharing the same ocean in such close proximity.

I bobbed alongside the other students, rehearsing the steps in my head. When my turn came, I paddled over to Finn, who held my board steady and watched the horizon for the right wave. “Get ready,” he said, then, “Paddle hard!” As I caught the wave, I heard him yell, “Stand up! Stand up! Stand up!” But I never made it off my knees before toppling in.

Students shredding — young people in the class quickly mastered the process of standing up.
(Credit: Brian Tress)

Meanwhile, the kids were surfing like pros. Luke, a 15-year-old from New Jersey who’d never surfed before, was already standing up and riding nearly all the way in. His 10-year-old sister, Isabella, was also shredding.

Each try brought me a little closer to standing — up a bit quicker, but still not fully upright before falling. On my fourth attempt, Finn offered some motivation: “This is an amazing wave. I’ll be so disappointed if you don’t do it.” Suffice it to say, I didn’t rise to the occasion.

On the fifth try, when I felt the wave lift and propel the board forward, I sprang up — no knees this time — just a fast, determined push up from the board. And suddenly, I was standing — I was surfing! Despite losing my balance a few seconds later, I managed to finish the ride in an orderly fashion — jumping, rather than falling, off the board. Progress.

Lesson curtesy of surfing instructors Clark Brown and Finn McCall. (Credit: Brian Tress)

Written and crafted by Brian Tress

To book an Outer Banks surfing lesson for you, your friends, or family,

visit KittyHawk.com/Surfing. ?